Sounds like the perfect thing to test and iterate and then use that to have something machined in metal.
Of course with some stronger materials it may be fine. But how resilient will the belts be from the tension/stress and is there any risk of injury when they snap?
I’ve had some luck with attaching silicone pie mat to prints that I wanted to have a grippy surface.
Downside is it picks up any grime, dust, dirt easily. No biggie when you throw a silicone mat in the dishwasher, more of an issue when you can’t do the same with something 3d printed.
Another consideration could be large furniture non slip pads. Something made for putting on the feet of a couch/sofa for example, cut to size?
Another thing to consider is making a data only USB ( I use a sliver of electrical tape over the 5v+ line ) to stop any power draw between the usb port and the printer.
And, of course, check that you have a good power brick since shoddy ones always cause issues with pis.
To be honest sounds like you’ve got a gremlin jumping from one piece of equipment to another so maybe prayer, voodoo, holy water and or appeals to the deity of universal fundamental force of your choosing could help too.
Very slick. Once it’s completed and has some time to work out the kinks you should tell Steve about it.
I’ve used it for releasing an iPad screen adhesive as well as for warming cinnamon rolls so they’ll rise when our oven was in use.
Totally had the food wrapped with Saran Wrap all around and had something between the plate and the glass pan. To make sure nothing that wasn’t safe for food prep didn’t touch it and to stop from “cooking” the bottom by accident.
Funny timing. I just saw that a YouTuber I’m subscribed to has a scheduled live stream about 3D printed speakers.
It’s already been used far beyond its planned operational status and everything since then has been gravy.
It’s amazing that they’re able to find workarounds to keep it useful for scientific tests and analysis.
That movie was bonkers… and then they made a game inspired by it? That’s…. Weird
Wiring from the PSU to the board?
Or any kind of backfeed on the motors like when you move them by hand quickly? Which I’ve done and not, so far, fried anything but it can.
Man… Gremlins suck.
Ahh. Maybe some internal resistor was causing noise on the pin… or even the MCU.
Like trying to debug a pc issue only to find out it’s a faulty motherboard
How’s the printer doing? Has the Gremlin moved out yet?
I assume they’re past some operational limit. But as long as you have redundancy that’s a risk I’d take for the capacity
I was wondering about that. Considering with ABS a little acetone makes a stronger overall part.
I was thinking maybe the dovetail would be good in that situation for strength but maybe something like a biscuit or peg and hole as mentioned is better?
Hot end fan. E.g. blowing over the fins on the heat break
One thing that could help with your testing is some way to hand feed it while having the cooling on the heartbreak. To ensure that only the melt zone has melted plastic.
This would drive me bonkers but stubborn enough to want to dig into the “what” of it.
If it were me I’d setup some kind of makeshift jig that holds the nozzle and hotend with cooling fan out from the rest where I could hand feed filament in.
So you could bring the temp up, wait a few minutes, then push and get a feel for what’s going on. Then wait a few more minutes and do it again. Feel resistance, up the temp, and repeat.
See if there’s some relationship between temp, extrusion, flow, etc that isn’t obvious otherwise.
One thing you haven’t mentioned replacing is the fan for the heat beak itself. May be worth giving a try.
I wouldn’t think it would create clogging scenarios usually but the PID tune does allow the firmware to learn the relationship between power applied to the heater and when the thermistor registers temperature changes.
Since you’re getting clogging and after a few minutes that could be from heat creep and there’s always the possibility that it’s being over zealous on the temp since it’s applying heat, not seeing enough increase, applying more heat.
Worth a try since you’d normally want to do a PID tune when you change anything related to it.
For me I do a bed tune when I change plates, and an extruder tune when I change any of the extruder hardware (fans too). If I’m printing in a material where the part fans will be high enough out of the norm I’ll do one with the fan at the given speed (e.g. my dual 5010 fans anywhere about 80% will blow back to the heater block even with creative use of Kapton tape to stop drafts and a PID tune helps mitigate any issues there.
Grasping at straws at this point but did you do a PID tune since changing it?
If they’re on board that could be their idle ambient temps.
The currents running through them, resistors, etc all generate some heat.
I tend to look at board temps less about the environment and more about how the board is doing.
Is it suddenly running very hot, etc.
As for the extruder it is attached to a thermal mass. So it may take longer to adjust but you did say it’s been sitting there for a bit.