2016 i believe

Ive seen one at least 10 years ago already. But that didn’t exactly charge the mouse, instead the mouse relied on always being on the pad to work.

Best way for pi alternatives I’ve found is to see which one is the most popular for the project / community I’m working with.

It isn’t always the latest and greatest but at least there will be plenty of support.

Idk my limbs don’t rotate 360° degrees, At least not multiple times. Unless yours do he has us beat on something.

That’s about the same as it costs them to run 30h of 1080p streaming to 100k people.

It’s a drop in the bucket, and one they aren’t even going to pay.

ASA and ABS definitely do better at elevated chamber temps. What temp is enough I can’t say but I still saw improvements when going from 50 to 70c. Higher temps also let you use more fan speed without the added risk of warping so you’ll probably see better overhangs even though the temps are higher.

Id start with adding some chamber temp sensors first so you can measure what difference you are making with the other mods.

Using 4 mm abs panels I saw about a 15c improvement by just throwing a fleece blanket over the printer, so that might be an easy fix if you don’t print large parts frequently. Although higher temps are also great for layer adhesion on smaller parts.

Yeah ridga or vzhextrudort style gears definitely help greatly. You could do a mihai style test to see if the artifacts on the i3 are mostly extruder related or from the XY motors.

Tuning drivers consistently for quality is going to require an oscilloscope, although there are some experiments with attaching an accelerator to the motor while doing a frequency sweep.

Of course you could just change settings and see if there is a visual difference, but there are too many settings and combinations to make that realistic.

What chamber temp are you using for such a large part? I’d recommend at least 70+C but that might be hard to reach with acrylic panels.

Your bed will also warp due to the heat since its rigidly mounted.

Surface quality is also driver (+ driver settings) and motor related, and even the combination of them.

A smart strap honestly sounds like a gap in the market. Seen quite a few people wearing a normal watch and trackers.

Keyboards covers are usually too thin to be a decent mousepad. Id look for a mousepad that fits into your current bag so probably something the size of the laptop itself

Still remember having to patch widevine L1 on my Poco F1 just to get HD working on Netflix.

Weirdly my totally legally obtained DRMless video files never had this issue.

Makers muse has some great videos on the g10 sheets as build surface. Your printer should be running klipper so it would be possible to alter the temp sensor by using a second calibrated temp probe on the build sheet and measuring the resistance of the main temp sensor and writing your own table for it. I did this for some old ntc10k sensors that read way wrong

I personally don’t mind textured pei for small mechanical parts but the roughness and depth of the texture can vary wildly.

But take a look at g10 fr4 sheets, they work perfectly for pla/abs/tpu and have a flat finish. A 330x330x3mm plate should only run you about $25 less if you can source it locally.

Edit: the side cooling fan is only useful for speed benchies or doing a plate full of parts with overhangs where the fan on the toolhead doesn’t spend enough time in one place to cool effectively. The side fan might also be placed too low, impacting bed temps more than it ideally does. If you plan on using it more I would recommend doing the bed pid tune with the fan at printing speeds.

He means they have a problem with Linux users. What other reason would there be to buy up games and remove native Linux support the second its removed from the steam store? (Rocket League for example)

Probably won’t be building one of those. Nice machines but kinda overcomplicated in some parts I feel like.

Stop buying printers and start printing printers. That’s were the real addiction starts.

Impossible to softmod, yes. But with a hwfly or picofly hardware modding is quite simple if you have decent solder skills.

Amoled and switch lite are modded the same way.

14mm³ isn’t even enough for an ender imho. Sensor is cool and all but it’s about the same cost as a vzhextrudort and Goliath or basically any other high-end hotend and extruder combo.

Just be careful to not connect to any Nintendo services when In the modded client. I’ve had my switch v2 hardware modded for 2 months now and playing botw at a stable 40+ fps when overclocked makes it way more fun for me.