The “meh key” simulates pressing ctrl+alt+shift at the same time. Can’t find any particular keyboard having it first, could have been added to QMK and then people who wanted it just added it to their layouts.

Add “site:reddit.com” to your google query.

Sad thing is that search engines have got so bad, and usually return so much garbage blog spam that searching directly on reddit is more likely to give useful results. I hope a similar amount of knowledge will build up on Lemmy over time.

Does it always happen at the same height? Could be Z axis binding. What kind of printer do you have?

Even if modern slicers have gained a lot of advanced features, to my knowledge the gcode they output is still very simple. You can put all kind of fancy commands in the start and end gcode, but the actual printing part consists almost exclusively of commands that move the nozzle to a specific XYZ coordinate, and/or make the extruder motor move the filament either backwards or forwards.

Maybe ask your brother about what software he used it with? If the printer has an sdcard reader it might be easier to print off that than try to get it to communicate with a computer. I don’t have any first hand experience with that old printers, but I would guess it uses some kind of serial over USB protocol similar to modern printers. If you’re using Windows I think you might need to track down a driver for the printer’s serial controller, but if you have Linux there’s a chance it has the necessary drivers built in.

Could it be the Micro Swiss you’re thinking of? AFAIK it is ok, though a bit over priced. Personally I would stay away from the cheap clones you find on Amazon/Aliexpress/Wish as the quality can be a bit of a gamble. Other CR-10 compatible hotends that I’ve heard good things about include Phaetus Dragonfly BMS, Mellow NF Zone, Slice Copperhead. If you just want an all metal CR-10 style hotend I would get one either from Trianglelab or Mellow, who are known to have relatively good manufacturing quality. They’ve gone up quite a lot in price so they’re almost as expensive as a Micro Swiss. Best value option is probably to just buy a high quality all-metal heatbreak and reuse the cooler and heat block from the stock hotend, in case you still have those.

Regarding the reset button, depending on how your firmware is configured it might be necessary for flashing they keyboard. It seems like most firmwares have keyboard combos for flashing without a reset button though, see this.

I like Teaching Tech’s calibration guide.

And if you don’t mind me asking, where have you heard good things about volcano hotends, and what things specifically? Unfortunately it can be difficult to know who to trust nowadays as there’s a lot of affiliate links disguised as buying advice, paid “reviews”, and well meaning people who confidently repeat what they’ve heard without knowing anything about how true it is. Personally I’ve always thought of volcanoes as a niche item for increasing your print speed while potentially sacrificing some quality, but I’ve never used one myself so don’t trust me either :). Some people appear to be able to calibrate them properly but oozing seems like a very common problem. If you bought some random cheap hotend off amazon there’s definitely a risk that you got a dud, as you said.

In the photos it also looks like there’s a low wall below the corner “window”, which doesn’t look like it’s present in the preview. Perhaps the creator made different iterations of the model, and either used photos from an earlier prototype, or they uploaded the wrong model file.

https://github.com/miroslavpejic85/mirotalk might be an option. There’s both a server based version and a p2p version IIRC.