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Awesome project!
3·7 months agoA dedicated numpad on the left is my favorite desk layout. I would love to have a full scientific calculator numpad, but it seems like it would be too crowded with normal size keys.
2·7 months agoUse an x-acto knife or a $5 PTFE cutter for best results.
Snapraid to a single drive works well if you are fine with daily snapshots of up to 6 drives.
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Your first layer seems inconsistent. What z sensor are you using? Were these printed in quick succession or did the printer have time to cool?
My thinking is this could be due to thermal drift in your homing sensor. First print will be solid, then subsequent prints will have a warmed up sensor resulting in a different z offset. Try minimizing variables by making your preheating consistent. Or just baby step the z-axis during the print start.
Beautiful builds! How did you like the Pink switches? I’m not sure if I could get used to how little force it takes to press them.
I started off with a Let’s Split and then moved to a BFO-9000 because I wanted more keys so I didn’t have to constantly jump between layers. The BFO-9000 is way too many keys in its default form! A few keyboards later and the Compression 4C is my current favorite. I still use my BFO-9000 from time to time to test out keymap ideas. My takeaway from 5+ years is to get a separate numpad and make sure you can access all the commonly used symbols and Fn keys easily.
The heat lamp did help for the couple parts I was having issues with. I now mostly use a mini trident for most of my ABS printing. The heat lamp only comes out when I need to do a large print on the Voron2.
There was a Nero3D (Canuck Creator) video a while back where he said acrylic is better at insulating than ACM so I went from ACM to acrylic. Plus the smoked translucent acrylic looks better. I bought the ACM from PrintedSolid originally and have since reused it for other projects.
I have the nevermore under my Voron2 300 and it still struggles with prints like you posted. Switching from ACM to Plexiglass panels helped improved insulation somewhat. The hack that I use in a pinch for big prints is a terrarium heat lamp with temp control hanging from the top of the printer.
Chamber temps need to be higher for such a long skinny print because it will contract significantly lengthwise. The fun part is that if you get better bed adhesion without higher chamber temps then it could bend the whole bed sheet into a taco temporarily. Try setting your bed at 110C for an hour before printing with the part fan blowing on the center of the bed to help circulate the air.
I have a voice assistant in every room so it can automatically recognize what lights I mean when I say “turn off the lights”. Controlling individual lights can be a little annoying so my Living Room Left and Right lamps are just called Fred and George.
Do you happen to know what your chamber temperature was? Ideally, you want to be at 60C to minimize stress cracks like that. ABS shrinks as it cools and will rip itself apart depending on the geometry of the part. My large printer needed a fan blowing on the bed to get reliable ABS prints. Well worth it though because ABS is a joy to post-process.
For bed adhesion, I use a small amount of Nano Polymer Adhesive on textured PEI for my ABS prints.
I ended up upgrading from a Sofle to a Compression4C keyboard because it is a similar form factor (aside from being a slim choc kbd). One of the thumb buttons gets moved to about where the rotary was on the Sofle.
MergerFS + Snapraid is a really nice way to turn ext4 mounts into a single entry point NAS. OpenMediaVault has some plugins for setting this up. Performance wise it will max out the drive of whichever one you are using and you can use cheap mismatched drives.
I’ll have to try the black hot glue filler trick. Sounds much easier than using dyed resin to get the same effect.
Do you have an auxiliary power connector hooked up to the HBA? Here is the manual.