Install them with Bottles or Lutris
Install them with Bottles or Lutris
I used Lutris before but I do Bottles now, fitgirl worked on both fantastic for me
I believe I was printing Overture petg around 250 on a brass nozzle, I do around 270 stainless and it’s fantastic. I run a dual 5015 satsana duct (v2 with removable ducts) and keep the fan speed fairly low which seems to help get the airflow perfect
Really depends on the make, you can get Mitchell and AllData prior to the subscription model (takes about a TB of space, from 1980s to 2013) to help with diagrams and disassembly and reassembly. Mitchell’s wiring diagrams really are a lifesaver.
Dealer level software/scanner combo you can get from obdii365, I got a Hyundai scanner from them and it worked well but you want to run the software in a VM or isolate it some other way and probably wouldn’t network it.
Vxdiag is pretty solid as well for the dealer software/scanner and you can usually get via Amazon but again I wouldn’t trust the software. I have their ford one and used it with IDS to set the VIN on an electronic power steering rack.
The software itself you can find via Google if it’s all you need but typically the scanner is very specific to the software for the dealership stuff
Yeah and whatever you do definitely don’t use Jellyseerr for Jellyfin setups or Overseerr for Plex setups
Do you have any of their doorbells? I went back to a physical doorbell button with home assistants sky connect dongle linked up to a motion sensor at the door just so I know when someone’s there but would love to get a camera up there that isn’t some ring bs
These cameras work very well with the wz_mini_hacks firmware completely cut off from the internet. I’m using frigate and home assistant for notifying and it’s honestly way better than the wyze app ever was.
I’m running frigate on a Lenovo m900 with the coral USB accelerator and my CPU usage is super low so you could probably get away with the Pi4!
I used gpt4 for terraform and it was kind of all over the place in terms of fully deprecated methods. It felt like a nice jumping off point but honestly probably would’ve been less work to just write it up from the docs in the first place.
I can definitely see how it could help someone fumble through it and come up with something working without knowing what to look for though.
Was also having weird issues with it truncating outputs and needing to split it, but even telling it to split would cause it to kind of stall.
I just used a buck converter and a USB pigtail for mine so it still plugs into the pi where the power cable used to it’s just running off the Ender 3s power supply. They were fairly cheap on Amazon something like $6 for a pack
The only cables you really see for my printer are the short USB connecting the Pi to the SKR on the back, and the power supply cable. The rest is hidden or inside cable chains.
Definitely made moving the printer easier and much less of an eyesore of wiring.
This isn’t far off from where I print PETG with a stainless nozzle for 125mm/s. If you’re using a brass nozzle and not pushing speeds then it seems high.
Have you PID tuned it?
Oh yeah definitely commissions are a whole other ball game they should at least pay for the filament needed to R&D it and ideally do something for your time
I never bothered with it but I’m sure you could. I just public domain everything I design since it’s a lot of older automotive stuff and I’d rather it be readily available.
Yep I only use Instagram and the fighting in comments of reels is extremely prevalent.
Content creators will even intentionally misspell things to try to kick it off if it’s a reel where the intention is to insult someone else.
Yeah and they have no top end
Surprised he doesn’t want to strap pillows to them
AirVPN, for over a decade and they’ve kept my ports the whole time
Welcome to chatrooms, they were always like this its just a lost phenomenon to most people especially those that didn’t grow up with them. Ignore and move on is pretty standard practice, I’m on slskd and I’ve only gotten DMs not sure if it even has the chat enabled by default
Is this actively heated or just temperature controlled? From what I saw it just has vents to allow heat to escape (think leaving the door open when printing PLA).
If it was actively heated I would buy it in a heart beat, Voron doesn’t even like people talking about it due to the high danger if done wrong.
EDIT: Yeah just looks like the bed heater still unfortunately. I have a modded enclosed Ender 5 I just have a heat soak script tied to a thermistor midway up the frame so I’ll hold off until there’s an actual separate heating element. Hopefully soon!