You can never get to “fully 3d printed” unless you can print metal, and even then the tolerances just aren’t there yet.
But if you want a 3d printer that’s as 3d printed as it can get, why not look at things that were designed for it, like Rook or Mulbot or The 100?
I bought the Kobo Libra Color and I love it so far. Previously I’ve had various Kindles and a Meeebook P78, and I like the Kobo a lot better so far. And I’m still just using it for B&W books at the moment.
The color is pretty faded, as you’d expect from e-ink. But I do enjoy that the book covers are in color.
I was actually hoping this was going to be a cover for my model, but oh well. :)
Gamesir T4 Kaleid. I love the hall effect joysticks, and it feels like it’s the right size. The one negative is that it’s wired-only.
OTOH, the GameSir Nova (not lite) is hot garbage. I hate almost everything about it, and its wireless PC connection (without the dongle that it does not come with) is trash. It’s basically only good as a Switch controller… And I haven’t even actually tried it for that.
The GameSir Nova Lite is much better, but still too small and you need to use the slightly-older 4200 firmware (from the official app) instead of the latest, because they got stupid about things.
I somewhat like the Xbox Elite V2 controller, but you have to get a good one. A bad one will have really crappy triggers that sometimes won’t work. I think I’ve even heard that the sticks are sometimes wonky. And it’s not hall effect.
I’ve tried it on a textured PEI (ASA) sheet in multiple spots, and a smooth PEO (PLA) sheet, same results. It’s always the same size and orientation, thought the PLA one was a lot harder to see.
The plate isn’t that clean, and I’ve used a lot of 3DLAC on it. I’ll likely try cleaning it again soon out of desperation, but I can’t see it being likely to change anything.
I’ve tuned basically everything, and changing my pressure advance value made no difference. 105 bed, 245 hot end for ASA. 60/220 for PLA.
So far as I know, there’s no meaningful different between older and newer chromecast dongles when it comes to just streaming video.
Why not try it? Plex can be downloaded for free and just stream from a local file and try it?
Check for errors in the developer console and the network tab?
Legit?
If you’re only watching on 1 TV, I don’t think there’s any reason to keep them a separate 4k library. And if your server can handle transcoding easily, there’s still not much reason.
If you have an often-used second (or third, etc) TV with lower resolution and your server doesn’t handle transcoding well, then it’s probably worth keeping them separate.
I’ve also started to disagree with the guide about file size. I don’t think I can tell the difference, and I’m not trying to preserve media for the future. So long as the video has the features I want, I think just about any file size is fine.
I turned on the video upscaling initially when I got mine, and then turned it off immediately and left it off. I hated it. I would rather watch 1080 native than upscale it.
In addition to what TheYang said, I wanted to note that the spec for 3d printed parts for Voron printers is:
4 walls 5 top/bottom layers 40% infill
These are parts designed for 3d printers, so they have to be pretty good. They recommend ASA or ABS because of the temperatures that the printers get up to. Most plastic parts you’re used to are ABS or something like it. Water bottles are PET which is similar to PETG, though of course they’re really thin so they’re super flimsy that way. Your part wouldn’t be flimsy, but the plastic would feel like strong PET. That’s not necessarily bad, just different.
Personally, I would recommend trying to find someone locally, and buying them a roll of a filament to print the parts for you. I’d budget $15-30 for each roll, and each roll will print 2.2 lbs of plastic parts, which should be more than enough for your stuff and some failures, and probably leave them some extra for their effort.
I think you can probably find someone who is also excited to see that keyboard come together and wants to be part of the build. And I think trying to print it online is going to be frustrating because there could be little mistakes that make the parts unusable that you won’t know to predict because you haven’t done it before. Or maybe not. It’s a gamble, IMO.
Yeah, I definitely think they’re extruding the insides too fast. Perhaps it’s a partial clog, or maybe the settings are too high.
I had an HP laser color printer long ago and loved it. I moved it between houses improperly and it died.
I bought a Brother laser, and it printed nice, but it curls thick paper. That made it nearly useless for papercraft, so I’m not a fan.
I bought an epson eco-tank inkjet printer. It works well enough, but it’s slow and if I don’t print for a while, it dries up and I need to run a cleaning cycle. The problem with that is that there’s a limited tank for the cleaning cycle ink in there, and once it fills up, you’ve got a problem. So I might end up worse off than regular inkjet cartridges because I don’t print enough.
So… I don’t have an answer for you. But you now know what I know. ;)
IMO, you didn’t get unlucky with the K1M or lucky with the P1S. That’s the normal state of printers. Most printers are hard to dial in well, and the Bambu printers work like a dream out of the box. Luck is involved for anyone that didn’t start in those states.